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Hair Cutting and Styling Tips

COWLICKS - does your hair stands up after your haircut? Your hairdresser is probably cutting your hair too short in that area. Tell your stylist about the problem ahead of time as he/she needs to pay special attention to these areas. I usually cut the cowlick very short in the nape area and leave it long on top (the length of the hair will keep the cowlick down). Another tip on keeping it down is wetting the hair and combing it in the direction of the growth, never against.

WINGS - if your hair grows into wings too soon after the haircut, it needs to be less layered. Have it cut in the graduated bob, where the weight of longest hair will keep the short hair, that usually "wings out", down.

DRY HAIR - do you feel like your hair is too brittle on the ends? You may need a hair cut.
Is it dry all over the hair shaft? Maybe your hair is over processed chemically - try to do only one chemical process, either color or perm. Have it done professionally. If you are doing it home you may be destroying your hair by using a wrong product or you may be applying it wrongly. Maybe you need to give your hair a break from all that chemical processing.
Are you telling me you do not color or perm your hair and it is still dry? Maybe your hair is coarse and dry naturally. Shampoo it 2-3 times weekly, use moisturizing conditioners and never use any products containing mineral oil, lanolin etc. These products will block your oil glands, which give your hair the best - natural lubricant. On top of that the oily substances will attract dirt and make your hair looking dull.
Are you drying your hair properly? You should gently squeeze the hair with your towel, never rub it, especially never rub it hard. If you do, you are destroying the protective hair cuticle, making it look dry and without any luster.
Are you an avid swimmer? Do you spend a lot of time in the sun? Protect your hair with swimming caps and hats, use sun block products.
Do you walk out of your house or appartment into the freezing air with your wet hair? Don't do it. Water inside the hair shaft freezes, expands and rips the hair. All you have is damaged hair.

OILY HAIR - Your oil glands produce generically and hormonally a lot of oil and your hair cannot absorb so much of it. You should not shampoo your hair with hot water, and never use a hair dryer on the hot air setting. Both of these stimulate your oil glands to release even more body oil. Use only lukewarm water and give yourself cold rinses as well. Use shampoos designed for oily hair (more about such shampoos and conditioners on shampoo or conditioner pages). You can also have your hair colored, or permed as your hair cuticle will get "opened" (or lifted) and therefor hair will absorb more of the oil.

FULLNESS FOR FINE HAIR - can be achieved by two dimensional coloring - have your hair colorist mix two or three shades of color and apply them via using a highlighting technique. If you do not like to sit for a long time then color your hair in one step single process. The color "swells" the hair up and creates a little of fulness.
You should keep your hair no longer then a shoulder length. The blunt cut gives an illusion of a wider hair at the bottom. But if you are good with brushes, you can ask your stylist to layer your hair and use all hairdressers tricks to make your hair very thick and full.
Your hairdresser may use texturizing scissors in about middle of a hair shaft. The shorter hair, if blow dried properly over the round brush, will "lift up" longer hair and therefor create again a fuller look.
Using a right shampoo for your hair type can help your hair look fuller. And remember - do not use too much of styling products, they will weight your hair down. For fine hair I love to use a small amount of mouse. It is very light. Some experts recommend use of herbal products instead of styling products. Apply it to the root area only, blow dry your hair away from the scalp, again adding body to your tresses.
Below are tips how to achieve fullness of fine/straight hair with styling.

STYLING THE STRAIGHT HAIR (1) - after your hair has been shampooed and hair conditioned, towel dry it and then comb it to remove any tangles. Use your favorite Styling Mouse (especially on very fine hair) or Styling Gel. Remove almost all moisture from your hair with a blow dryer turning your head up side down and from side to side. That way you will create a maximum fulness.
If you have long hair, section your hair using clips to keep it in a place. Start blow drying your hair from the bottom to the top using round brush. Lift the section you want to work on, brush your hair from underneath to remove tangles from blow drying and insert the round brush at the scalp area under the strand lifting it slightly to make hair fuller. Now you are ready to heat and cool repeatedly each section. Make sure it is completely dry and cool before you stop. If there is any moisture left in your hair, the style (and fullness) will collapse.(Remember: fullness should be created on the scalp, not on the ends. Also do not over brush the hair - it will become flat on the surface and limp overall.)
If you have short hair, you don't have to really section it. You can finger style your hair and then use the round brush to create a fullness only where needed.
At this point, when the hair is completely dry, a person with long or short hair should place the hair in a style and using a favorite hair spray make sure that the style will stay for most of the day.
Helpful tip - you can also spray each already dry section with a light mist of hair spray close to the scalp area while the brush is still in place and speed dry it with a blow dryer.

STYLING THE STRAIGHT HAIR THE FAST WAY (2) - after your hair has been shampooed and hair conditioned, towel dry your hair, then quickly blow dry the hair till it's completely dry. Take the biggest Velcro rollers for long hair (smaller size for shorter hair) and insert them in sections. You don't have to make perfect sections, but you should use the rollers just like the comb to smooth the hair just a bit, so it doesn't get wrinkled, then roll them in. This way hair gets plenty of fullness. Hair spray after you insert all your rollers in. Go get dressed, make your coffee, eat breakfast, put your make-up on etc. Take the rollers the very last minute before you leave the house for work. Don't forget to brush your hair (or just quickly blow dry your root area only - to break any separations from rollers), give yourself last mist of spray and voilà, you look great.

STYLING THE CURLY HAIR - after shampooing the hair, towel dry it and work a dab of hair conditioner into the hair. Comb it with a wide tooth comb, add your favorite Styling Gel and crunch and crunch and crunch, while blow drying your hair with a diffuser (your head up side down to add an extra fulness). The diffuser is a wonderful invention. It slows down the air flow, but retains the heat. Hair doesn't get blown away and doesn't get frizzy, yet it gets dry. I get very nice firm cork screw like locks. If your hair still has some frizzes on the ends (especially before the hair cut) put a little dab of gel in your palms, rub them together a "crunch" it into your hair.

HAIR PART that is always in the same spot, can contribute to the "flatness" of your style. You can use the popular zigzag parting, that is never in an exactly same spot, or alternate parting on each side.


January 2000, Updated June 2008


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